(Painting in Progress) After painting a monochromatic underpainting on SYNAPS synthetic paper, I applied several layers of transparent glazes. |
Learn how to use acrylic glazes.
Glazes have been around since the days of the Renaissance oil painters. These painters developed the technique of painting a monochromatic underpainting. Over that painting, they would apply glazes, which are very thin layers of transparent color. Imagine that the glaze is a colored film that you apply over a black and white photograph. The results of using glazes were some very beautiful, luminescent colors, that you cannot achieve using opaque colors.
The Difference Between a Glaze and a Wash
Today, painters using acrylic paints employ some of the same basics
as the masters did. Acrylic glazing mediums are a different than those used
with oil paints. Glazing medium contains the same type of polymer binder that
is used in acrylic paint. The binder in the medium ensures that your glaze
adheres to your painting so that there is good intercoat adhesion.
While a wash of watered down paint is also transparent, it is not
the same as a glaze. In painting on paper, washes work. On other media, they
don’t. When you use a paint/water wash rather than a paint/medium glaze, you
have weakened the ability of the wash mixture to adhere to the painting.
Potentially that layer of wash mixture could flake off. It may not happen immediately. It may not
happen for years. In my opinion, a wash used on media other than paper is the
proverbial problem waiting to happen.
Mixing the Glaze
In mixing the glaze, the ratio that you generally want to use is 1 part of paint to 10 parts of glazing medium. Liquitex and Golden are two popular brands of glazing medium. To that mixture you can add some retarder to slow the drying of the glaze. You can also thin you mixture with a little water. Limit the amount of water that you use, so you don’t compromise the ability of the glaze to adhere to the paint underneath it.
You can use several different layers of glaze on a painting. If you
want to add multiple colors to a painting, do not mix all of the colors together
in one glazing mixture. Often the result will be a brown or muddy color.
Instead, you need to apply one layer of color at a time to achieve the final
hue desired. That doesn’t mean that you can create your own colored glazes. For
example, in the photo of the poppy shown in this article I mixed a red and a
blue to create a purple hue which I used in the shadows.
Selecting Paints for Glazes
In using a paint color to create a glaze, read the label of the
paint tube to learn about the opacity of the paint. Some pigments are
transparent. Others are semi-transparent or opaque.
In many cases, in creating a glaze, you will want to use paint with
transparent pigments. This allows the underpainting to show through. The
transparent colors allow transmission of light through the glaze and reflect
off of the different values of highlight, midtones and shadows of the
underpainting. This gives the painting a
very luminescent presence.
Blues, reds and yellows tend to be the more transparent colors. I
don’t want to give you the idea that you cannot use opaque and semi-transparent
paints in creating a glaze. You can. Many people use earthtones, such as raw
sienna, burnt sienna and yellow ocher, which are not transparent, in glazes.
Just keep in mind that if you use an opaque color in making a glaze,
the result could be a hazy appearance over the base painting. On the other
hand, that might be the appearance that you are trying to achieve.
If you are not sure how a particular paint will work as a glaze, you
need to do a little experimenting. As I like to tell people: Test, Don’t Guess.
Mix up a little glaze and try it. Then record your results in a journal for
future reference. Or if you want to
understand how different transparent colors look over other colors, you can
create a test panel for yourself showing different color combinations.
Applying the Glaze
In applying the glaze the preferred brush among artists is one with
very soft hairs. The reason is that the softer hairs will apply a very even
layer of glaze without brush strokes that will level out to a nice smooth
finish. The surface finish of the underpainting is also critical in achieving a
uniform appearance. Preferably the surface of the painted substrate will be
very smooth. If the substrate is rough or has a texture, more pigment will be
deposited in the valleys of that textured surface. The result is often a
blotchy appearance.
In working with acrylic glazes, you will need to work fast, because
acrylic paints dry fast. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to periodically
mist your glaze and paint on your palette to prevent them from skinning over.
Apply very thin layers. Before applying another layer, let the
initial layer dry thoroughly. Even if you mix in a retarder and a little water
into the glaze, it will tack up fast. As soon as that happens, stop working on
that area and work on to another area of the painting.
There is only so much that you can learn about glazes by reading or
watching a video. The only way that you will truly understand what you can and
cannot do is to put what you learn into practice. Only by working with
different mediums and trying different concoctions will you master this
technique.
About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
© 2015 Jim Hingst
Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer. Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.
Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for publications, such as Signs Canada, SignCraft, Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 325 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published.
© 2015 Jim Hingst
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