Learn about the thermal die cutting process and tips for cutting cast, calendered and reflective films...
In the
thermal die cutting process, a magnesium die is heated and pressed against
a pressure-sensitive vinyl, such as RTape Vinylefx® films. Aided by the pressure of the
die, the heat melts the film. Typically the film shrinks away from the cut
line, which makes the process of weeding the unwanted film much easier and
faster than when films are computer cut.
In making a
thermal magnesium die, a photosensitive metal plate is exposed to light and then chemically etched in an acid
bath. After etching is complete, all that remains are the very
fine beveled cutting edges of the die.
In making a thermal die a magnesium
plate is etched. To “kiss cut” vinyl graphics, the heated die is pressed
against the pressure-sensitive vinyl film. To prevent sticking, dies are
available with a release coating. Photo courtesy of Earl Mich Co.
Although
thermal die cutting is a much slower process than steel rule die cutting, the
cost of the tooling is significantly less, especially if the die has many lines
of small type and intricate shapes. In many cases, achieving the same fine
detail by bending steel cutting blades is either impossible or cost prohibitive.
The thermal die is attached to the
bottom of the heated platen using a thermal bonding tape. Photo courtesy of
Earl Mich Co.
In thermal
die cutting, the two most important variables are heat setting and the dwell
time. Heat settings will vary from one type of vinyl to another. A two mil cast
vinyl will generally cut at 275°F or 135° C.
Calendered vinyl usually requires higher cutting temperature of
approximately 300° F or 149°C, which is the same recommended heating setting
for Vinylefx® films. The typical
temperature for cutting reflective sheeting
is about 325° F or 163°C.
Please note
that I qualified my statements with the modifiers: generally, typical and
usually. These temperature settings
should be regarded as starting points, when you are setting up for
production. Temperatures and dwell times
will vary depending on the die cutting press and the material that you are
cutting. Adjusting the temperature and
dwell times in many cases is a matter of trial and error.
Careful inspection
of the cut vinyl is important not only
during the set up stage but also throughout the production run. The press operator should periodically
inspect the material that he is cutting to ensure that he is getting the
desired results, regardless of what type of material he is cutting.
Some printers will spot check their work every twenty to forty
sheets. Printed sheets and sheets with intricate copy and designs
should be inspected more frequently.
The rule of
thumb is that as the thickness of the vinyl increases, so does the require
cutting temperatures and dwell times.
Here’s another rule. Your settings will vary depending on whether or not
the vinyl is printed and clear coated and what type of ink is used.
Dwell is the time that the press is closed. Dwell
time can vary greatly depending on your cutting temperature and the composition
of the material that you are trying to cut. Dwell times can vary from a half of
a second to as long as six seconds. If
you are cutting a two mil cast vinyl at a temperature of 275° F, the typical
dwell time can be between a half of a second to one second. At 300° F,
calendered vinyl will require about a second. At 325° F, reflective sheeting
can take two seconds. The dwell time and temperatures for cutting Vinylefx™
films varies from one machine to another. At 300° F, cutting time can be as
short as a half of a second. Other machines can require temperatures as high as
325° F for three seconds.
Common
sense should be employed when adjusting temperatures and dwell time. For
example, if the material starts to burn
around the edges, lower the heat or decrease the dwell time.
Vinyl
materials can release differently from different liners. Some printers claim that the release from a
90lb. poly-coated liner is tighter than a 78lb. clay coated liner. For that
reason, these printers believe that film on a clay liner weeds easier. While some printer swear by clay liners,
others swear at it, claiming that the liner curls in humid weather.
Sometimes, when cutting at high
temperatures, vinyl films and reflective sheeting can stick to the thermal die.
Printed and clear coated films are more likely, to stick to the die than
unprinted material. To prevent sticking, dies are available with a release
coating.
To prevent
damage to dies, try taping a rubber mat
on the bottom bed of the press. Using a rubber mat or 20 pt. board will
provide some cushioning for the die.
In thermal die cutting, the film
shrinks away from the cut line, which makes the process of weeding the unwanted
film much easier and faster than when films are computer cut.
Photo courtesy of Earl Mich Co.
Transferring
thermal die cut graphics can be problematic.
The melting process creates a noticeable lip on the edge of the vinyl,
which is referred to as a burled edge.
The pressure of the die against the release liner will usually break
through the siliconization layer, exposing the fibers of the liner’s paper
base. Over time the adhesive of the
vinyl flows into the cutline, bonding
with the paper fibers.
The burled edge and the adhesive flow
into the cutlines can make transferring of the film difficult. To aid transfer
of thermal die cut graphics, RTape (www.rtape.com)
developed its 4885 heavyweight paper
premask. 4885 is a super high tack tape
with 20+ oz of adhesion. Die cutters are also using RTape AT75, which is a high tack film application tape. When using AT75, apply the film with a squeegee and wait at least 30 minutes for the adhesion to build to the graphic before attempting to transfer the die cut.
Vinyl Application Videos
Squeegee Technique. Nothing is more basic in vinyl application than the squeegee. But some squeegees work better than others. And there are right ways and wrong ways to use this simple tool. This video clip reviews squeegee selection, squeegee care and squeegee technique. Click to Link
Wet Applications. Dry applications are typically recommended for most vinyl applications. For those exceptions to the rule, this instructional video explains the right way to perform a wet application. Click to Link
Application of Window Graphics. Installing vinyl graphics on glass can be challenging, because the adhesive aggressively grabs onto this high energy surface. Repositioning graphics on window is generally difficult, if not impossible. This instructional video explains how to dry apply window graphics right the first time. It also describes the necessary steps required for surface preparation. Click to Link
Transferring Frosted Window Graphics Films. Because frosted window films are highly textured, transferring cut vinyl graphics can be problematic. This video provides direction in selection of the right application tape and how to apply these films quickly, easily and without problems. Click to Link
3-Step Surface Prep. This instructional video describes how to properly clean the surface of a vehicle before applying pressure sensitive vinyl graphics to a trailer or doing a full wrap of a car or van. This three step surface prep involves detergent washing, solvent cleaning and a final wipe down with IPA. Click to Link
Vinyl Application Over Rivets. Applying vinyl graphics on vehicle surfaces with rivets is challenging for most sign makers. Vinyl failures to these surfaces are all too common. This video demonstrates some tips and procedures, used by professional decal installers, which will make these demanding applications easier and more trouble-free. Click to Link
Vinyl Application to Corrugations. Learn how to apply vinyl graphics to corrugations in a relaxed state. Forcing films into the valleys of corrugations puts too much mechanical stress on the film. Sooner or later, the vinyl will lift or tent in valleys. Click to Link
Applying Air Egress Vinyls. Vinyl films with air egress release liners have almost eliminated bubbles and wrinkles from applied graphics. Air egress release liners with their highly textured surface structure are problematic. Not much will stick to these liners other than the vinyl film. At RTape our best premask solution for air egress liners is a special Conform® tape called 4761RLA. Click to Link
About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer. Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.
Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for publications, such as Signs Canada, SignCraft, Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 325 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published. Vinyl Sign Techniques is available at sign supply distributors and at Amazon.
© 2016 Jim Hingst
Thanks for the information Jim. The problem with the polycoated liners cannot be understated. The polyethylene protects the paper beneath from absorbing moisture but can be easily melted if the dwell time is too long. As you noted, it may not seem too bad initially but the adhesive will flow into those cut lines and attached to the paper fibers- making lifting of the cut areas nearly impossible.
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