By Jim Hingst
You may have heard that you can add kerosene to
lettering enamel as a thinner. Back in the day when most signs were painted, painters
added all types of things to their paint. Some of these practices were secrets
of the trade. Other practices, including adding kerosene to paint, could be
problematic.
Kerosene was at one time known as coal oil,
because it was distilled from coal and oil shale. That was an expensive way to
make the solvent. Today kerosene is distilled from petroleum.
What makes this solvent different from other
solvents is that it dries slowly -- slower than any other solvent that artists
and sign makers usually use. Because of this slow drying property, some of the
old timers have added it to lettering enamels and other oil paints when painting
or pinstriping in really hot weather.
If you are tempted to give it a try, a word of
caution would be in order. Limit the amount that you use to very little. How
much? Generally, add no more than a teaspoon to a gallon of paint. Adding more
than that could spell trouble. Here’s what can happen. Kerosene takes a long
time to evaporate, which allows a painter sufficient open time when
temperatures are high. If you add too much, it may take forever and a day for
the paint to dry.
Do not add kerosene to water based paints, such
as acrylics or latex paints. The reason is that the kerosene could very likely
cause the failure of the paint to adhere to the substrate. Only use kerosene,
if you must, with oil based paints. Kerosene also has a strong, objectionable
odor.
Fine artists and decorative artists have also
use kerosene as a paint additive when mixing up glazes. The reason kerosene is
used is twofold. First, it increases the open time of the glaze. Secondly,
because kerosene is a hot solvent, it can improve intercoat adhesion between
layers of glazes.
While I would hate to discourage
experimentation, if you need to retard the drying of paint, there are better
alternatives to use than kerosene. Thinning lettering enamel with a high
temperature reducer made by the paint manufacturer makes more sense in my mind.
Turpentine and mineral spirits (also called white spirits in the UK) are also better choices for thinning paint.
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About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer. Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.
Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for publications, such as Signs Canada, SignCraft, Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 400 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published. Vinyl Sign Techniques is available at sign supply distributors and at Amazon.
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