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Saturday, October 10, 2015

Applying a Wiping Varnish to Your Carving

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Using  a wiping varnish can help you avoid the runs, drips and other errors that can blemish a finish when varnishing a woodcarving project.  This article explains how to mix  and apply wiping varnish for a perfect finish on your carving. 

By Jim Hingst @hingst_jim

No matter how hard you try, if something can go wrong when varnishing a project, it usually does. Often the finish is marred with drips, brush marks or dust nibs. One way to avoid problems is to spray the varnish. That’s a great solution if you have the equipment and the facility to do the job.

Another solution is to apply a wiping varnish. Several coats will protect your project with a beautiful finish as well as preventing those nasty glitches that can drive you nuts.

Several coats of a wiping varnish produce a beautiful finish.

What is a Wiping Varnish?

Wiping varnish is similar to but not the same as oil finishes, such as Tung Oil Finish or Tru Oil. Both are thin coatings, which are wiped or rubbed onto the wood surface. Both require several coatings. The difference is that an oil finish is typically a mixture of oil and varnish. These oil finishes will not provide so hard of a protective coating as a wiping varnish.

A wiping varnish provides a hard protective coating.

While you can buy a “ready-made” wiping varnish at your local hardware store, you will save a little money by making it yourself.  Another advantage of mixing your own concoction is that you can control the ingredients. The reality is that the "ready-made" finishes are sometimes mislabeled, with some wiping varnishes actually including oils.  

Wiping varnish is regular varnish thinned with mineral spirits (or what the Brits refer to as “white spirits”) to the viscosity of milk.  The typical ratio of varnish to mineral spirits is 50:50.  You can alter the ratio, reducing the amount of mineral spirits. However, thicker mixtures will not level out so readily and will take longer to dry.

If you are mixing your own wiping varnish, you have a choice of using one of many different types of oil-based varnishes, such as polyurethane varnish or spar varnish. Water-based varnishes are not suitable.

Wiping Varnish levels out readily for a smooth finish without drips,
 brush marks or air bubbles.
The advantage of a wiping varnish is that it you are applying a very thin coating that dries really fast. So fast that it does have time to sag and fast enough that any dust in the air will not settle on your project and become part of the finish. The thin coating also levels out readily for a smooth finish without brush marks or air bubbles.

The disadvantage of regular varnish is it is thick. This thick coating dries really slowly, allowing additional time for dust to embed in the surface. On vertical surfaces, the extra time can also result in the heavy coating sagging or forming drips. Thicker coatings may not level out so well and consequently are more prone to brush marks and air bubbles. 

Application of a Wiping Varnish


Application of a wiping varnish is easy, which makes it a great finish for a beginner. Before applying the varnish, sand the carving with 150-grit sandpaper. Using a tack rag, clean off any of the dust created in sanding.

To apply the varnish/mineral spirits mixture, simply wipe it on with either a brush or lint-free rag. A well-washed old bedsheet or cotton t-shirt makes a great rag for either wiping varnish on or off. To prevent any dust getting onto the surface of the varnish, work in a clean area of your shop. To aid the curing of the varnish, the temperature in your work area should be set at 70° F.   
                  
Apply at least four coats to build a thick protective coating.
                                                                                            
After the surface is thoroughly coated, wipe off the excess varnish. Then wait twenty-four hours before sanding. Using 400-grit wet dry sand paper, lightly scuff the surface to remove any dust nibs. After sanding, clean any residue with a tack rag or rag moistened with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).

Reapply the wiping vanish, repeating the procedure that you used with the first coat. To build a thick protective coating, you will need to apply at least four coats. After you are satisfied with the coating that you have achieved, do not sand the final coat.

After varnishing, wait a week before applying a wax finish. Colored wax can accentuate the contrast between highlight and shadow areas of your carving.


For the last coat to sufficiently harden, you should wait a week before waxing the surface. A colored wax will accentuate the shadow areas of your carving. To facilitate the application of the wax to deep recessed areas you can soften the wax with a little mineral spirits to soften it. You can apply the wax with a chip brush. Buff the wax with a soft cloth. To remove any of the dark wax from the high spots of the carving, apply a clear wax to these areas and buff the surface. The application of dark wax will accentuate the contrast between highlight and shadow, creating the illusion of depth in relief carvings.


Finishing a carving or woodworking project is certainly time-consuming. The payoff for your efforts will be a beautiful and durable finish which complements the hard work that you have invested in your project.


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About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.

Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer.  Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.

Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for  publications, such as  Signs Canada, SignCraft,  Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and  Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 325 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published.


© 2015 Jim Hingst

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