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Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Avoiding Edge Curling When Printing Full Bleeds

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Why the Simplest Solutions are Generally the Best



Printing heavy concentrations of ink to the edges of some films can result in edge curl. But there is a simple solution. 


As a solvent or ecosolvent ink dries, the coating contracts. That makes sense! The same thing happens with paint.  Usually the contraction of the ink is no big deal, unless you print to the edge of the graphic. (Printing to the edge of the graphic is also referred to as a full bleed.)

What can happen when printing edge-to-edge is that as the coating contracts, it can pull the edges of an applied graphic from the substrate. This is a common problem when print on RTape’s VinylEfx® films and on RTape’s EZ Erase film. It is also a problem with other films from other manufacturers.  

To circumvent the potential problem of edge curling, we have recommended to printers to leave at least ¼” border all the way around the printed emblem. In some cases, you may need to increase the  size of the border for images with heavy concentrations of ink. We also caution printers and graphics installers to NEVER cut into the printed image. For some customers, allowing for a border is an acceptable solution. For others, this procedure may not satisfy the designer’s vision or practical considerations of the job.  

As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat.  If you must print edge to edge, you might consider printing the job using a UV inkjet printer. This means that you may need to farm the job out. If this solution still isn’t sending a thrill up your leg, I have a few other solutions  that you might try.

Here’s one that the boys in the lab came up with. Before plotter cutting the printed graphic, they accelerated the drying process in an oven. After waiting 24 hours, they cut the graphic. Will this work all the time? That depends on the adhesive, the facestock, the ink density and the substrate to which the graphic is applied. Sometimes this solution will work. Sometimes it doesn’t. So much for certainty!  That’s why sign makers need to “Test, Don’t Guess”.

Certainly controlling the ink limits is a major factor in preventing edge curling. Heavy concentrations of ink, especially ecosolvent inks, will contribute to shrinking and edge curling of  printed VinylEfx® and other types of vinyl films.  

Generally we had been telling RTape customers to print VinylEfx® using a profile for  White Intermediate High Gloss Vinyl at lower temperatures (35-40C).  Settings, of course, will vary from one inkjet printer to another and from one ink system to another. Getting your printer dialed into the right settings may take time. For this reason, RTape has posted ICC profiles for the most popular printers in the sign industry for VinylEfx®  and other RTape products on their website at: http://www.rtape.com/icc-profiles.

Finally, I saved the best solution for last. Here goes. Don’t print the VinylEfx® at all. Instead, print the image on a clear vinyl overlaminating film and apply it to the VinylEfx®. That’s what my friend, Tom Zambito, did in producing the decal pictured above.

To avoid the problem of edge curling, Tom remembered the principle of Occum’s Razor, which advises us that the simplest solutions (i.e. those with the fewest number of steps, hence the least amount of complexity) are generally the best solutions.



Vinyl Application Videos

Squeegee Technique. Nothing is more basic in vinyl application than the squeegee. But some squeegees work better than others. And there are right ways and wrong ways to use this simple tool. This video clip reviews squeegee selection, squeegee care and squeegee technique. Click to Link

Wet Applications. Dry applications are typically recommended for most vinyl applications. For those exceptions to the rule, this instructional video explains the right way to perform a wet application. Click to Link

Application of Window Graphics. Installing vinyl graphics on glass can be challenging, because the adhesive aggressively grabs onto this high energy surface. Repositioning graphics on window is generally difficult, if not impossible. This instructional video explains how to dry apply window graphics right the first time. It also describes the necessary steps required for surface preparation. Click to Link

Transferring Frosted Window Graphics Films.  Because frosted window films are highly textured, transferring cut vinyl graphics can be problematic. This video provides direction in selection of the right application tape and how to apply these films quickly, easily and without problems. Click to Link

3-Step Surface Prep. This instructional video describes how to properly clean the surface of a vehicle before applying pressure sensitive vinyl graphics to a trailer or doing a full wrap of a car or van. This three step surface prep involves detergent washing, solvent cleaning and a final wipe down with IPA. Click to Link


Vinyl Application Over Rivets. Applying vinyl graphics on vehicle surfaces with rivets is challenging for most sign makers. Vinyl failures to these surfaces are all too common. This video demonstrates some tips and procedures, used by professional decal installers, which will make these demanding applications easier and more trouble-free.  Click to Link

Vinyl Application to Corrugations. Learn how to apply vinyl graphics to corrugations in a relaxed state. Forcing films into the valleys of corrugations puts too much mechanical stress on the film. Sooner or later, the vinyl will lift or tent in valleys. Click to Link

Applying Air Egress Vinyls. Vinyl films with air egress release liners have almost eliminated bubbles and wrinkles from applied graphics. Air egress release liners with their highly textured surface structure are problematic. Not much will stick to these liners other than the vinyl film. At RTape our best premask solution for air egress liners is a special Conform® tape called 4761RLA. Click to Link


About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.

Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer.  Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.

Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for  publications, such as  Signs Canada, SignCraft,  Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and  Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 325 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published.  Vinyl Sign Techniques is available at sign supply distributors and at Amazon. 


© 2016 Jim Hingst

1 comment:

  1. Jim- This is a problem for all vinyl materials- The trick is to get the solvent out as quickly as possible. Although right after printing the ink seems dry- it is drying from the top down. It can take up to 48 hours for the ink to dry at room temp- you can sometimes smell the residual solvents after a day or 2. If you can smell the ink, the solvent is still there effecting the vinyl. There are some aftermarket dryers out there; some are rather inexpensive- Roland recommends an optional dryer they supply for white and metallic inks- "The VS-i series features a built-in heating system, as well as an extended heater and blower which are available as options to further accelerate the ink-drying process. These options also ensure peace of mind when working with white and metallic inks and when using the built-in take-up system during high-speed printing.

    OndS 640A/B [For VS-640i]
    OndS 540A/B [For VS-540i]
    OndS 300A/B [For VS-300i]" See http://www.rolanddg.com/product/color/color/vsi/option.html
    These systems are basically force air heaters- some homemade systems can be created but getting systems designed for the end use are usually worth the money-
    Again- get the ink completely dried as quick as possible.

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