By Jim Hingst
For most people, buying an entire set of wood carving tools is a waste of money, even if they are on sale. In many cases, the bargain set will include
many tools, which you will neither need nor use.
You will be much better off passing up the
tools on sale and only buying the tools you need. A novice carver should just start with few
basic wood carving tools. I listed some of these in
this article. If you are just carving
incised letter, you can probably get by with a v-parting tool, a couple of
straight chisels and a couple of either #2 or #3 gouges.
You should also pass on the deals that you
might find on e-bay. There’s nothing wrong with shopping on the internet. But
if you buy used tools, sight unseen, you will never know what you are getting.
According to Butch Anton, you can, however,
find some good deals at flea markets. “Many
times people sell quality tools, which they have inherited, with no idea of
their value,” says Anton. “Just inspect
the tools carefully, before buying.”
He cautions to look out for wood carving tools that have been
haphazardly sharpened on a grinding wheel before being put on the market. Grinding
often overheats the metal, changing the temper of the steel. Unless the steel is tempered again, the blade
can never hold an edge.
Brand new, high quality tools can be
moderately expensive. The advantage is that you won’t be buying someone’s junk.
If you want to know what type of tools
that you will need to equip your shop, ask an experienced woodcarver.
“I first learned to carve from a master
craftsman,” says Francis Lestingi. “I figured, if the Pfeil brand was good
enough for him, it was good enough for me.
Although I have tried other tools, this is the brand that I have stuck
with.”
Whether you are buying tools on the internet
or at a woodworking store, such as Woodcraft, only buy name brand products. Dastra,
Henry Taylor, Pfeil, Two Cherries and Stubai are some popular brands of high
quality chisels and gouges. You would not go wrong buying any of these brands
of tools. One way to determine your
preference in tools is to purchase chisels and gouges in each of these product
lines and judge for yourself.
“Woodcarvers develop very strong brand loyalty,” notes
Butch Anton. “Generally when someone starts working with a particular brand of
tools, they stick with.”
If you are studying the specifications for a
line a chisels, the most important physical characteristic is the hardness of
the steel. The hardness is rated on the
Rockwell scale. The steel should not be
too soft, nor should it be too hard, but just right. Soft steel won’t hold an
edge. Hard steel will be too brittle and prone to chipping. The right hardness
is anything above 58 and below 63.
Chisels. The cutting
edge of a straight chisel is perfectly flat. There are a variety of these
chisels to choose from. Most of the one
used for wood carving have a double-bevel blade, while others have a single
bevel. In carving incised letters, straight chisels are primarily used to
smooth the rough cuts with gouges.
Another type of chisel, which is has little use in sign carving
applications, is a skewed chisel. Its
blade has an angle, while allows you to reach into tight places.
Gouges. Gouges are
a type of chisel with a curved blade. Available in a variety of shapes, gouges
are designed to scoop out large bits of wood.
The curvature of the blade is often referred to as its “sweep”.
Gouges
are assigned a number, which describes its sweep. Those with a low number, such as a #3, have a
slight curve. The higher the number, the more curvature the blade has. The more curvature that the blade has, the
more wood that can be removed with each scoop.
For sign applications, the most frequently used gouges are #3, #5 and
#7.
In a
perfect world, the number system would be the same for all gouge makers. That, of course, would make life way too
easy. Just so you are aware, the English
numbering system differs slightly from all of the other European
manufacturers.
Gouges are also available in a variety of blade
widths. Since most of the high quality
chisels and gouges are manufactured in European countries, such as Austria, Germany
and Switzerland, the widths are indicated in millimeters and not in fractions
of an inch.
V-Parting Tool.
A V-parting tool (or just called a parting
tool) is one of the most versatile chisels and is an absolute necessity for any
woodcarver. Most people describe it as
two chisels in one tool. V-parting tools
are available with blades at different angles.
Typically a 60º tool is used for carving incised letters. But other 45º and 75º parting tools are also
available.
In carving incised letters, sign makers use a
V-parting tool to cut a groove down the center of is the stroke of a letter. If you do any relief carving, you will also
use this tool to outline the design as you start to carve. In
cleaning up the edges of your carving, you can also use it to give your work
crisper definition.
Veiner.
U-shaped gouges, called veiners, were given that name because they are used to carve the veins of leaves as well as fine lines in decorative molding.Other Woodcarving Tools.
While straight chisels and straight gouges
comprise the majority of the wood carving tools required for sign carving, an assortment of
other types of gouges are also available. Spoon gouges, which have a bend
shaft, are essential for reaching concave or recessed areas. Fishtail gouges,
which feature a narrow shaft and a flared blade, are popular for cutting in
tight corners.
Your choices don’t end there! Many
manufacturers offer hundreds of different chisels and gouges in their product
lines. You can very easily spend a
fortune on tools, if you are not careful. So only buy a new tool, when you
determine that you absolutely, positively must have it.
Tool Recommendations
Below is a list of basic wood carving tools that
you might consider for your collection. Since you may not be familiar with the
metric system, I included the English equivalent (approximate) in parentheses.
- 8mm (5/16”) v-parting tool
- 12mm (1/2”)#1 straight chisel
- 24mm (1”) #1 straight chisel
- 38mm (1.5”)#1 straight chisel
- 12mm (1/2”)
#2 gouge
- 12mm (1/2”)
#3 gouge
- 20mm (3/4”) #3 gouge
- 6mm (1/4”)#5 gouge
- 12mm (1/2”)#5 gouge
- 4mm (1/8”) #7 gouge
- 12mm (1/2”) #7 gouge
- 12mm (1/2”) #9 gouge
- 4mm (5/32”) #11 gouge – veining tool
Mallet. A
mallet isn’t essential for wood carving. Some wood carvers, such as Dr. Lestingi,
simply push their carving tools with their hands or tap on the end of the
handle with a palm mallet.
Other
carvers feel that for controlled cuts, a mallet indispensible. While mallets are available in a variety of
styles, weights and materials, most carvers prefer a simple hardwood variety,
and keep both a large and small sizes on hand. Bronze-clad mallets, while being
very attractive, are too hard and tend to mash the ends of chisel handles. Don’t try using your framing hammer either.
Thinking Outside The Traditional Tool Box
When roughing out a shape, sign artist Chris
Maylone (Christopher Maylone Studio, Chicago, IL) uses a variety of power
tools, rasps and shavers. “There’s nothing sacrilegious about using power tools
to rough out a job,” says Maylone. “They save valuable time, which I can devote
to carving the detail work.”
Maylone also uses a number of tools designed
for furniture and cabinet making. His studio is next to the shop of master
furniture maker, Jeff Miller. Along with making custom wood furniture, Miller
has authored several furniture-making books and teaches woodworking.
“Jeff has introduced me to a variety of woodworking tools, which I have used in carved signs,” says Maylone. “Some of my favorite
woodworking tools are micro planes, Japanese saw rasps and spokeshaves.” A
spokeshave is often described as a plane with handles. In furniture making, it is typically used to
shape the spindles of chair. “If I am
carving a dimensional letter,” he continues. “I use a concave spokeshave to
round the edges.”
Once the carving is roughed out, Maylone uses
an assortment of plaster chisels and gouges and rifflers for the detail
work. Rifflers are double-ended
miniature rasps and files, which come in a variety of shapes. They allow you
can to reach into tight places, which you can’t get at with a gouge.
“A
good set of rifflers and files are essential for shaping contoured designs,”
says Maylone. “These tools provide fine control for removing a precise amount
of wood with little chance of any tear out.”
To carve fine details and add surface
textures to his carving, Maylone also uses an assortment of Italian plaster
chisels. “I learned about these tools
when I went to art school in New York City,” he recalls. “Many of these tools I
use “as is”. But I also have modified a number of them to suit my needs.”
For really intricate detail, Maylone
recommends using a flexible shaft carving system. With a variety of micro bits, he can cut and
texture a surface with much greater detail than is possible with gouges.
POWER CARVING TOOLS RECOMMENDATIONS
RELATED ARTICLES
About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
© 2015 Jim Hingst
WOODCARVING TOOL RECOMMENDATIONS
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 6mm (1/4") #7 Sweep Fishtail Gouge
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 10mm (25/64") #7 Sweep Fishtail Gouge
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 6mm (1/4") # 12 Sweep V-Parting Tool
Wood Is Good 170-1012 12-Ounce Mallet
● Essential
tool for making precise cuts.
●
Features durable urethane head.
POWER CARVING TOOLS RECOMMENDATIONS
Foredom 5400 TX Motor, Woodcarving Kit
Set of 5 – 1/4" Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Coarse Grit, Green – End Mill, Carbide Burr Bit by Saburr Tooth
Set of 5, 1/4 inch Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Extra Coarse Grit, Orange - End mill & Carbide Burr Kit by Saburr Tooth
Set of 5, 1/4 inch Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Fine Grit, Yellow - End mill & Carbide Burr Kit by Saburr Tooth
RELATED ARTICLES
About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer. Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.
Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for publications, such as Signs Canada, SignCraft, Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 485 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published.
© 2015 Jim Hingst
what
ReplyDeleteI carved my first effort almost exclusively with a 10mm #4 Stubai gouge I got for $8 when Amazon was closing out their Stubai and Two Cherries at bargain prices a few years ago. I have since added a couple dozen other tools (many also at bargain Amazon prices), but I could still do it with that one tool if I had to. If I had it to do over again and couldn't get the Amazon deals, I'd look at the presharpened set of 12 at schaaftools.com for $140.
ReplyDelete