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Which woods are best for carving? Basswood, butternut, cedar and mahogany are popular woods for woodcarving. Learn the advantages and disadvantages of these and other woods.
By Jim Hingst
Quite often when a sign maker finds a wood that he likes, he sticks with it. “We all have our favorites,” says Butch “SuperFrog” Anton of Moorhead, MN. “But you shouldn’t limit yourself to just carving one or two types of woods. There are a number of excellent woods native to North America, along with an even broader selection of exotic woods from around the world.” Anton recommends exploring the product selection at a reputable lumber yard specializing woods for woodworking and woodcarving.
Basswood.
While basswood (Tilia americana) falls into the category of hardwoods, it is anything but. Its softness and its even, straight grain make it easy to carve and the most popular choice among carvers. “Basswood is a great wood to work with if you are doing any high relief carving,” says Butch Anton.
Because basswood is soft and has an even grain,
it is very easy for a beginner to carve. |
Butternut.
If you like the appearance of walnut, consider Butternut (Juglans cinerea). It’s actually in the walnut family, but the wood is not so hard. In fact, butternut carves almost as easily as other softer woods, such as basswood and tupelo. Its coloring is darker than either of these two woods, which makes it much more attractive.
In
carving butternut, you will need to be mindful of the grain direction. If you are not careful, the wood will rip out
on you. As you are carving, if it seems as if the wood is starting to chip,
stop and come at it with your gouge from the other direction.
“You
wouldn’t think that carving in the same direction as the grain would be
problematic, but it usually is,” says sign artist, Chris Maylone, from Chicago,
IL. “With your thumb pressing against
one side of the shank, you can use your gouge to slice through the wood at a
skewed angle. This can help prevent tear out.”
Western Red Cedar.
Western red cedar (Thuja plicata) is an excellent choice for either interior or exterior signage,
because it is softwood, easy to carve and holds fine detail. With redwood being in short supply, many sign
makers have opted to using cedar as substitutes.
Outdoors Western red cedar will outlast many hardwoods, because the resins and oil act as a wood
preservative. Its high concentration of pungent oils also deters bugs,
preventing them from making a meal of your signage.
See my story, Carving and Gilding a Cedar Sign. |
“I’ve worked with other woods, but my preference is Western red cedar,” says Sal Cabrera of Signs by Sal in New Freedom, PA. “Cedar has a nice straight grain and is softer than other woods, such as mahogany or maple, so it’s easier to carve.”
That’s
not the only consideration. Cabrera says that in his area, Western red cedar is more
readily available and more affordable. “From my supplier, Harbor Sales, if I
order a sign blank one day, they deliver it the next,” he says. (Harbor Sales
is located in Sudlersville, MD www.harbordsales.net).
Above
all, cedar is durable. According to Cabrera, cedar signage should provide seven
to ten years outdoor durability, if it is painted and refurbished as needed.
Typically,
cedar and other wood signs are painted. Unpainted, cedar darkens with age,
which, in the minds of some, accentuates its natural beauty. As redwood has
become more expensive and shorter in supply, cedar has increasingly become the
alternative wood of choice.
Mahogany.
A rose is a rose is a rose. But
not all mahogany is the same. The reason is that the wood comes from many
different parts of the world. There is
Honduran mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), African mahogany (genus Khaya) and West Indian or Cuban mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni). Then there’s Luan, also called Philippine mahogany, which isn’t mahogany at all.
Each species of mahogany has its own unique physical characteristics, which
include the weight of the wood, its density or hardness and the color.
Mahogany
is prized for its dark, richly colored exotic appearance but also for its
durability. While mahogany is frequently
used for exterior applications, it is subject to the degrading effects of the
elements. Sunlight light will bleach its
deep red, luxurious color.
Many
veteran carvers, such as Dr. Lestingi, prefer mahogany, not just for
appearances, but also because it is a strong wood that will hold detail. Of
course, a wood prized for its beauty comes at a higher price than other more
commonplace woods.
Most of the
mahogany sign blanks that Dr. Lestingi uses are comprised of laminated pieces.
He feels that boards comprised of very narrow strips are structurally stronger,
more dimensionally stable and less likely to warp, than if wider pieces were
used. Because board quality can vary
greatly from vendor to vendor, caveat emptor.
Mahogany is a good choice for interior applications, in which the wood
will be stained and varnished to show off the wood’s color and grain. Outside a
varnished mahogany will not weather the elements.
Read Mahogany for Signage, Furniture and Carving
Oak.
Oak is prized for its attractive wood grain, which is even better looking after it is stained and varnished. Known for its hardness and strength, oak holds detail very. Its hardness is also its curse, making it extremely difficult to carve. This is certainly not the type of wood that a novice carver will want to practice on. Although you might guess that this tough wood would weather well, actually the opposite is true. Oak does not withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Nevertheless, it can be a good choice for indoor signage applications.Pine.
Common to the northeastern parts of the United States, eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) is a softer wood, used in construction and furniture making. Because eastern white pine has a uniform grain, some sign makers in the New England area choose this wood for carving signs. Softer than other wood, this pine does not hold the detail that a harder wood can, nor is it as durable outdoors.Redwood.
Some things have enduring beauty. Redwood (Sequoioideae) is one of them. For signage applications, no wood product lasts better outdoors and looks better. Problems inherent in other woods, such as shrinking, warping and rotting, are virtually unheard of with redwood.
If it’s such
a great product, why isn’t every carver using it? “Quality always comes at a
premium,” says Butch Anton. “Redwood is a prime example. You can pay $25 to $30
a square foot for an inch-and-a-half sign blank. And it’s worth every penny, if you charge
accordingly and sell the benefits of the product.”
When you
consider the service life of redwood versus anything else, dollar for dollar
you get the most value, according to Anton. That’s the primary sales benefit
that you have to drive home when you are make a sale. “Even in Minnesota, a
redwood sign can withstand our brutal weather for fifteen years, no problem,”
he says.
Its
durability and resistance to decay and insect infestation aren’t the only
things that Butch Anton likes about redwood. “When I’m buying a sign blank, I’m
looking for a piece that has a nice tight, vertical grain,” he says. “It’s also
a softer wood and easier to carve. Above all, nothing beats redwood’s natural
beauty.”
Sapele (also known as Sapelli).
Dr. Francis Lestingi told me, that he has recently been using Sapele (Entandrophragma cylindricum) as an alternative to mahogany. Compared to African Mahogany, Sapele is a harder and heavier wood.
Whereas African Mahogany is prone to tear out because of interlocking grain,
the straight grained Sapele is easier to work. While both species are
considered African redwoods, Sapele exhibits an orange tint. Both woods are not only from the tropics, but are also from the same family. Dr. Lestingi recommends Eckhart Woodworking, Inc. in Monroe, Indiana (www.woodworkingmadeinamerica.com) as a source for this wood.
Tupelo.
You’ve heard of Tupelo, Mississippi, the birthplace of Elvis. Tupelo is also the name of a type of tree, which grows in the swamps of the southeastern part of our country. While it’s not typically used for signs, it is a popular wood among duck decoy carvers. The wood is soft, which makes it easy to carve and a good wood to practice on if you are a novice carver. Another nice feature is that if you are using a flexible shaft cutter, the wood does not fray as you are carving with burrs.Tupelo is very soft, even grained wood , which is easy to carve. |
TRADITIONAL WOODCARVING TOOL RECOMMENDATIONS
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 6mm (1/4") #7 Sweep Fishtail Gouge
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 10mm (25/64") #7 Sweep Fishtail Gouge
PFEIL "Swiss Made" 6mm (1/4") # 12 Sweep V-Parting Tool
Wood Is Good 170-1012 12-Ounce Mallet
● Essential
tool for making precise cuts.
●
Features durable urethane head.
POWER CARVING TOOL RECOMMENDATIONS
Foredom 5400 TX Motor, Woodcarving Kit
Set of 5 – 1/4" Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Coarse Grit, Green – End Mill, Carbide Burr Bit by Saburr Tooth
Set of 5, 1/4 inch Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Extra Coarse Grit, Orange - End mill & Carbide Burr Kit by Saburr Tooth
Set of 5, 1/4 inch Shank, Ball Nose, Cylinder, Flame, Sphere, Fine Grit, Yellow - End mill & Carbide Burr Kit by Saburr Tooth
WOODCARVING ARTICLES
Visit My Carving Community
Using a Mini Angle Grinder for Woodcarving
Woodcarving Tool Care
Thinning Paste Wax for Easier Application
Applying a Wiping Varnish to Your Carving
Using Epoxy Clay to Correct Woodcarving Mistakes
Safety Rules for Angle Grinders
Lowering the Cutting Angle of Woodcarving Gouges
Undercutting to Create Drama in Relief Carving
Using a Mini Angle Grinder for Woodcarving
Woodcarving Tool Care
Thinning Paste Wax for Easier Application
Applying a Wiping Varnish to Your Carving
Using Epoxy Clay to Correct Woodcarving Mistakes
Safety Rules for Angle Grinders
Lowering the Cutting Angle of Woodcarving Gouges
Undercutting to Create Drama in Relief Carving
NEW INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS. Five new videos have been added to RTape’s YouTube channel. The following is a description of the new videos:
Squeegee Technique. Nothing is more basic in vinyl application than the squeegee. But some squeegees work better than others. And there are right ways and wrong ways to use this simple tool. This video clip reviews squeegee selection, squeegee care and squeegee technique. Click here to view the Squeegee Technique video.
Wet Applications. Dry applications are typically recommended for most vinyl applications. For those exceptions to the rule, this instructional video explains the right way to perform a wet application. Click here to view the Wet Applications video.
Introducing AT65. Installing multiple color overlays with a paper application tape is not much easier than driving in the dark without your headlights. For these challenging applications, RTape developed its AT65, the universal high tack film. This video clip explains the features and benefits of this remarkable new film application tape. Click here to view the Introducing AT65 video.
Application of Window Graphics. Installing vinyl graphics on glass can be challenging, because the adhesive aggressively grabs onto this high energy surface. Repositioning graphics on window is generally difficult, if not impossible. This instructional video explains how to dry apply window graphics right the first time. It also describes the necessary steps required for surface preparation. Click here to view the Application of Window Graphics video.
Transferring Frosted Window Graphics Films. Because frosted window films are highly textured, transferring cut vinyl graphics can be problematic. This video provides direction in selection of the right application tape and how to apply these films quickly, easily and without problems. Click here to view the Transferring Frosted Window Graphics Films video.
About Jim Hingst: After fourteen years as Business Development Manager at RTape, Jim Hingst retired. He was involved in many facets of the company’s business, including marketing, sales, product development and technical service.
Hingst began his career 42 years ago in the graphic arts field creating and producing advertising and promotional materials for a large test equipment manufacturer. Working for offset printers, large format screen printers, vinyl film manufacturers, and application tape companies, his experience included estimating, production planning, purchasing and production art, as well as sales and marketing. In his capacity as a salesman, Hingst was recognized with numerous sales achievement awards.
Drawing on his experience in production and as graphics installation subcontractor, Hingst provided the industry with practical advice, publishing more than 150 articles for publications, such as Signs Canada, SignCraft, Signs of the Times, Screen Printing, Sign and Digital Graphics and Sign Builder Illustrated. He also posted more than 325 stories on his blog (hingstssignpost.blogspot.com). In 2007 Hingst’s book, Vinyl Sign Techniques, was published.
© 2015 Jim Hingst
Local wood sellers have basswood for about $2.30 a board foot and most of it is very clean and carvable, so I haven't strayed from it much except for experimenting with butternut, cypress, yellow pine, and even dogwood and sweet gum. They all present challenges, but I got decent carvings out of them all.
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