As
paint weathers in sunlight (UV light attacks and degrades the resin that binds
the paint ingredients), it oxidizes and gradually erodes, leaving a powdery,
white residue.
Chalking
should not cause alarm — it’s the result of the normal aging process. All
oil-based paints chalk. Excessive chalking, however, can be a problem, often
caused by excessively thinned paint. Very light coats of paint and poor quality
paints are also more prone to excessive chalking.
Typically,
chalking is not an issue because the white powder is flushed from the vehicle
surface during regular washings. However, if chalking remains on the substrate,
it must be cleaned prior to graphic applications to prevent a vinyl failure.
Chalk contaminates the adhesive and forms a barrier between pressure-sensitive
adhesive and the paint, preventing a good bond.
The
degree of chalking and the substrate’s condition differ from vehicle to the
next — strict rules for substrate preparation don’t exist. That’s why chalking
removal may require experimentation.
Some
experts suggest using a power washer to flush the surface with clean, warm
water, while others contend that even high-pressure power washing only removes
a minimal amount of residue.
If
you opt to use a power washer, exercise extreme caution. Excessive water
pressure can literally blow paint off a trailer panel. Be sure to keep the tip
of the washing wand at least one foot from the surface.
Using solvents for cleaning, as I describe in my story 3-Step
Prep for Vehicle Graphics, will satisfy the cleaning
requirements for most vehicle graphics applications. It does a great job cleaning dirt, grease and tar, but it won’t touch a
surface which is badly chalked. In fact,
if you try to wipe down a chalked surface with petroleum-based solvent, such as
Prep Sol™ you will likely do more harm than good.
A
chalky surface is a layer of dead paint, which will absorb the solvent like a
sponge. Rather than cleaning the surface, the solvent will turn the white
powder into a white paste, which will merely smear around the paint surface.
Some chalk and dirt will be driven back into the paint, and the chalk will
float back to the surface, causing adhesive failure.
Abrading
the surface is often the best — although certainly not the easiest — solution
for cleaning a chalky substrate. Many decal installers use a kitchen scouring
pad, such as a Scotch-Brite™ pad, and water to clean the surface. This will
require plenty of clean rags to mop up the considerable mess.
Scouring
pads effectively abrade chalk from the surface, but they will also scratch. In
most cases, the result should be acceptable, considering that excessive
chalking isn’t aesthetically pleasing in the first place.
Some
installers use polishing or rubbing compounds to remove chalking. Be sure to
select one without wax, because such cleaners leave a residue that can compromise
the adhesion. I recommend using powdered cleaners with mild abrasives. In addition to removing the dead
paint, these cleaners will scuff the paint, providing more surface area
to bond the adhesive.
For
more information on surface prep and graphics application, refer to my book, Vinyl Sign
Techniques. It is available on Amazon.com and at some sign supply
distributors. I also recommend reading The Graphic Installers Handbook. This comprehensive
guide to vinyl graphics installation is a “must have” resource for the beginner
or seasoned professional. Written by Rob Ivers, the certification director for
the PDAA (Professional Decal Application Alliance), the handbook covers every
aspect of vinyl graphics installation. Contact Rob at www.robivers.com for more information about
his book. Rob also offers PDAA certification classes as well as private
graphics training.
To
contact Jim Hingst, write him at hingstjim@gmail.com
or at Jim Hingst, PO Box 671, Chesterton, IN 46304 USA. For immediate
assistance, call RTape at 1-800-440-1250
or 908-753-5570.
© 2012 Jim Hingst
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